Living in Japan became a little daunting once the plane actually hit the ground. I took a Japanese class in college, but overall, I didn’t have a clue. After a few weeks trying to acclimate myself, I overcame my fear and decided to enter a restaurant by myself for dinner.
From the markings on the lit paper lantern outside the restaurant, I figured out it was a yakitori restaurant. Basically, grilled meat on skewers. That sounded delicious. I memorized the phrase, “May I have a menu please?” in Japanese. I repeated it three times before taking a deep breath and opening the sliding rice papered door.
It turns out, the owner converted his house into a restaurant. He stood behind an L shaped bar. In front of him was a hollowed out log filled with coals with a metal grill on top. He had a paper fan that he used to fan the fire. You could see the flames dance and hear the sizzle of the meat above the lively chatter. It was a full house.
I took a seat at the bar and used my one broken Japanese phrase. May I have a menu please? Which he shook his head and replied, Menu? Nai! OK. No menus. I didn’t have much Japanese left. What now?
He was a little gruff. Didn’t smile. I did know how to order beer, so I quickly did that. I needed some liquid courage. He then proceeded to drop sticks of grilled meat on the plate in front of me. If OMG was a phrase back then, I’d certainly would have yelled it. It was delicious. Throughout the evening, he kept my plate full and I continued enjoying my meal with an ice cold beer.
The bar was full of locals. It had a homey, warm, family vibe. As I soaked it all in, I heard someone ask, “Are you American?” It turns out the owner’s daughter was an English teacher at a nearby school. What luck! We sat and chatted and she helped translate conversations between her father and me. His wife came by and joined the conversation as well. His gruff exterior soon softened. At the end of the evening, he wanted to treat me to the night’s meal and refused to accept payment. I thanked him but insisted on paying and left more than enough on the bar. What a wonderful experience.
I became a regular there. I even had my own seat at the end of the bar. The owner’s wife and daughter always joined me on the end and we enjoyed our chats. Once when I entered, the bar was completely full. The owner asked the entire bar to stand up and shift one seat to the right to make room for me in my seat. Wow. As I recounted this experience to my friends back home, I told them at that moment I officially became Norm at Cheers.
I came back weekly not only for the delicious food, but for the warmth and friendship. Living in a foreign country without knowing the language or culture, moments like these ease feelings of homesickness. If I had to choose a favorite restaurant, I’d choose this one hands down. I remember always leaving with more than a full stomach. The time spent with this family also filled my soul. Arigato.
Because I spent that year in Japan, I had an immediate connection to the film Lost in Translation. It’s difficult to put into words the feeling of being alone in a foreign land. This movie seemed to capture it perfectly.
A lonely, aging movie star named Bob Harris and a conflicted newlywed, Charlotte, meet in Tokyo. Bob is there to film a Japanese whiskey commercial and Charlotte is there accompanying her celebrity photographer husband. Strangers in a foreign land, the two find escape, distraction and understanding amidst the bright Tokyo lights after a chance meeting in the quiet lull of the hotel bar. They form a bond that is as unlikely as it is heartfelt and meaningful.
– IMDb
On the CD version of the soundtrack, there is a hidden song at the end of track 15 after 8 minutes of silence. It’s Bill Murray singing More Than This. It’s interesting there is a hidden song, almost akin to Murray’s words hidden behind his undecipherable whisper into Scarlett Johansson’s ear in the final scene. What exactly were his parting words? Maybe there are bits and pieces that are supposed to be uncovered when you look hard enough, while others are left to remain a mystery, open to interpretation. I’m sure there are YouTube videos that reveal Murray’s final words. I think I’ll pass. I’d rather keep the dialogue I’ve already written in my head. I don’t want to spoil the ending.
While I do like Roxy Music’s version, I’m partial to the 10,000 Maniacs version because this was the first song I heard from the band after the departure of Natalie Merchant. Mary Ramsey, a classically trained violinist, took over at lead vocals. Although the band didn’t achieve great success after Merchant’s departure, I’ve always liked their cover of More Than This.
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I could feel at the time
There was no way of knowing
Fallen leaves in the night
Who can say where they're blowing
As free as the wind
And hopefully learning
Why the sea on the tide
Has no way of turning
More than this - there is nothing
More than this - tell me one thing
More than this - there is nothing
It was fun for a while
There was no way of knowing
Like a dream in the night
Who can say where we're going
No care in the world
Maybe I'm learning
Why the sea on the tide
Has no way of turning
More than this - there is nothing
More than this - tell me one thing
More than this - there is nothing
What a positive experience you had at that bar. Yes, a warm welcoming experience like that is great.
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It was a once in a lifetime experience
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I just love this story about your time in Japan! “I did know how to order beer” made me laugh. I know the Roxy Music version of the song best, but it’s interesting that 10,000 Maniacs carried on without Natalie. I didn’t know that. Really great post! (I’ll have to rewatch Lost in Translation at some point)
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They carried on for quite awhile. I think Ramsey used to sing backup with them so her taking the lead after Natalie left was an easy transition. I read the lead singer from Sixpence None the Richer stepped in as lead singer for a little bit. Interesting. I just read Ramsey is back now.
I haven’t seen the movie in years. I may have to watch it again, too!
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OK, I just read the 10,000 Maniacs Wikipedia page. I had no idea they’d been at it for 40 years now, with so many different members!
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Shocking, I know. I haven’t really listened to them in twenty years. I may have to check out the recent stuff.
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That’s an awesome story. Thanks for sharing.
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Great story! You are braver than me to live abroad without knowing much of the language. My favorite part was when you said the owner made everyone stand up and move over to make a place for you! I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry! So heartwarming! ❤️
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That was an incredible moment. They were such a kind family
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That sounds like an amazing experience! Seriously, it’s the kind of stuff that you would see Hollywood make movies about.
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It’s one of my fondest memories in Japan.
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What a great post and story of your travels and restaurant adventures! I do think of you whenever I happen to see the daily prompts, and wondered when I saw this one, too. Nicely done.
I am a big fan of 10,000 Maniacs’ rendition of “More Than This.” They make it a real toe-tapper with some great energy. A high-quality cover of a Roxy Music classic.
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Thanks, Steve!
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My pleasure!
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I’m impressed with people who take these prompts and do them well. What a memorable/wonderful experience in Japan!
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Thank you for the kind comment. I really appreciate it. Writing is relatively new for me and am still trying to find my voice. But I’ve been enjoying the process. The word prompts can be a little iffy sometimes, but it’s a good way to write everyday. Japan was a wonderful experience! I enjoyed walking down memory lane!
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